[whatsit]

I finally patterned my gun today and found a Mod choke wasn't providing as dense a pattern as I wanted. So I switched to an improved cylinder and I get a nice cloud of shot just above the poa and a little to the right (for some unknown reason) at 30 yards.

Which choke does everyone else use for this game?

 

[NachO_1911]

IC is a "looser" choke - less pattern @ given distance.

I like this chart for choke selection.

It gives a good reference point for all types of shooting, keep in mind in trap @ the 16yd line, your typically shooting a clay @ approx 25 yards.

I used a mod choke in a Stoeger Long-fowler to learn with, great choice for 16, 17, 18 yards, but it's a little wide @ 19+, I've upgraded to a Verona 505LX SC now, and use a "lite full" briley choke for 16-25 yards, and 26, 27 get the full choke.

Hope that chart helps, but as always you need to pattern each choke with each type of ammo in each gun, as they are all different POA/POI.

NachO

 

[whatsit]

HM... I need to look at the choke again, then. Maybe it wasn't a mod choke. Weird.
Anyway, thanks for the neat chart!

 

[NachO_1911]

Usually chokes are marked by notches on the top rim.

1 notch - Full - smallest constriction
2 notches - Improved Modified
3 notches - Modified
4 notches - Improved Cylinder
5 notches - Cylinder - Little to no constriction (.005 or less)

you will likely come across chokes labeled - Skeet 1, and Skeet 2, Lite Full, Extra Full, and Turkey chokes. It's best to check the manufacturer website for the constriction on these and I usually compare them to the ones listed above to figure out what 1/2 steps they are.


GL to ya! Keep shooting.

NachO

 

[bobski]

try full and go from there.
btw...whats your skill level at trap?
and if your pattern is left or right, its usually a sign of a non-concentric choke.(defective) switch out chokes and try that patterning again.

 

[whatsit]

try full and go from there.
btw...whats your skill level at trap?
and if your pattern is left or right, its usually a sign of a non-concentric choke.(defective) switch out chokes and try that patterning again.

I'm very new. I've shot three rounds of 25, so far. So, any inaccuracy, I'm blaming on myself, right now.

 

[bobski]

odds are youre also hesitating on your shots...so the full makes up for it and allows you to still hit it further out.

 

[BigSkiff]

I shoot full chokes in my trap guns for all three events, Singles, Handicap, and doubles.

If your gun patterns to one side or the other when you shoot it off of a rest the problem could be your choke, your sight alignment, or your gun mount. Since your eye is the rear sight on a shotgun, sight alignment is often the cause of off center patterns for new shooters.

 

[OldTex]

It has been my observation that you don't need as much choke or as large a shot size as many others use. For singles and the first shot of doubles I always use Imp Cyl and #9 shot (sometimes #8 if that's what I have in good supply). Same thing when shooting short yardage handicap except that I always use #8 shot. (A great combination for dove also.)

For the second shot of doubles I use Imp Mod choke and #8 shot. I went all the way to the 27 yard line with Imp Mod and #8 as well. I've never used 7 1/2 shot. I often practice with an extra full choke at handicap. Those puffs of smoke that used to be a target just build up your confidence. But when it counts I open up the choke just to give myself an advantage. And the smaller shot gives a denser pattern. I may not smoke the targets with this setup but they all look like puffs of smoke on the score sheet.

I haven't shot competition for several years due to vision problems (it's hell getting old) but those relatively open chokes got me this back when I shot seriously (plus a slew of belt buckles):

In my Brownings, I use Briley titanium chokes. I can't prove they put out better patterns but if nothing else, the extended length makes it easier to swap tubes.

On the subject of choke tubes, be sure you get them clean. When I was starting I just used Hoppes #9 to clean my barrels and chokes. Then one day I put the choke tubes in some Shooters Choice to soak. After a few minutes I pulled a plastic tube out of the chokes - it was like I had used the chokes as a mold to create a plastic cast of the choke. The buildup of plastic had to be substantially reducing my effective choke size.

Now I soak my bores down after each session and run a tornado brush down the tube. The semi-liquid plastic just oozes out the end of the barrels on the first stroke. I soak the bore by putting the Shooters Choice in a spray bottle from the hardware store (get the heavy-duty spray bottles or the solvent will eat the bottle itself). A few sprays down each barrel will leave a good supply of solvent in the bore. Then rotate and tilt the barrels to make sure all the insides have been covered. It doesn't really need to soak, just get it all wet and run the brush through.

This is going to sound crazy, but if you go to your local Chevy house and ask for some GM Top Engine Cleaner, it's basically the same thing as Shooters Choice for a fraction of the cost. It used to come in liquid form but I think it only comes in a spray can nowadays. I went many years using nothing but this solvent on all my guns. It strips even the worst copper fouling out of a rifle bore and won't harm any finsih on wood or steel.

 

[Thunder71]

I use what OldTex said... seems to work well for me as well.

Really depends how far you let the clay fly, if you're quick on the shot or not makes a big difference.

 

[BigSkiff]

I think choke selection, like everything else in trapshooting, is different for a lot of shooters. If you pattern your chokes you will see approximately where they shoot in your gun. Every choke tube patterns a bit differently, and the effectiveness of it's choke is related to barrel bore diameter. How your choke selection relates to broken targets is also dependant on how fast or how slow you shoot your target. For example, a more open choke maybe an asset if you are fast shooter, hitting your targets close to the house. That same choke may not work very well at all for you if you're inclined to ride the target before you shoot. The best answer to which choke is best, is probably found by you and a bit of experimentation with your gun, the pattern board, and some practice targets.

 

[godawgs82]

I use modified for trap, five stand, and sporting clays.

 

[USMC Snakedriver]

IC for Singles.
Lite Full for Handicap (27 Yard)
I also change loads for singles and handicap. Singles I load #8 shot at about 1050 fps. Handicap is loaded with #7 1/2 at 1200 fps. There's some good advice on this thread. Try some different loads and chokes to see what works for you. Just starting out you can definately get by with #8 or 9 for 16 to 22 yards through an IC choke. In reality, I could shoot one load through a single choke and not give up anything. But as you get into the game, you gravitate to equipment and loads you THINK will yield higher scores. The Lite Full choke really powders the bird when you're on! And that's a lot of fun!

 

[NachO_1911]

I'm starting to up my average, being sort of new to Trap (6 months). I started with a Modified choke, and 1200fps 71/2's - Now that I've improved my skill a bit, shooting 3 or 4 times a week will put it on fast, I'm working with Briley Spectrum Lite-Full and 1200-1290 1oz 71/2's. I found this combo to work for me from 16 to 27, I only change the load as I move back. 1200's seem to work great until I hit the 22yd line then I move up to 1290's and those work well from 23-27.

I've steadily worked on making my self more consistent, and honestly I think that helped up my scores more than Equipment, or Loads. I try and do the exact same thing every single time, in an effort to eliminate as much shooter variance as I can. This has brought my average up from 18-20, to 24-25 in a short time. Getting over looking at the end of the shotgun was the hardest thing, I'm a Pistol/Rifle shooter and moving from aiming to pointing was quite a culture shock for me.

Tons of good advice in this post, but, I think the best advice is to find your "ritual" and maintain it, Footing, Gun Mount, Hold point, and Call. Make it all the same every time and the scores will go up as you put more rounds down range.

NachO

 

[USMC Snakedriver]

Nacho, if I'm not mistaken, Trap loads can't exceed 1200 fps when used in ATA competition. That was the rule at our club when I was competing. Anybody have anything different?

 

[bobski]

i believe max drams for handicaps can go higher.

 

[NachO_1911]

Nacho, if I'm not mistaken, Trap loads can't exceed 1200 fps when used in ATA competition. That was the rule at our club when I was competing. Anybody have anything different?

I double checked yesterday, non-handicap it's 3 dram max. Handicap nobody stated a max DRAM. I havent found a need to exceed 3.25-3.5 Drams in handicap, Thats 1290-1300 with 1 1/8 oz loads. 3.25 runs 1290 with 1 oz loads.

I shoot mostly Federal and Estate purchased from Rogers Sporting Goods | Gear for the Serious Outdoor Enthusiasts at Rogers Sporting Goods - Hunting, Fishing, Camping

i believe max drams for handicaps can go higher.

This is what I have been told.

NachO

 

[BigSkiff]

3. Any load with a velocity greater than 1290 FPS (Feet Per Second) with maximum shot charge of 1 1/8 ounces, or 1325 FPS with a maximum shot charge of 1 ounce, or 1350 FPS with a maximum shot charge of 7/8 ounces or less, as measured in any individual shotshell. These velocities are maximum and no individual shotshell shall exceed these limits for the designated shot charge.
In addition, no load containing more than 1 1/8 ounces or any shot larger than Number 7 1/2 can be used. Shot charges are maximum and no charge may exceed the charge amount by more than 3%. Steel shot in Number 7 will be acceptable as long as velocity criteria are the same as for lead shot shells.

That's a copy of the current ATA rule book regarding shells and velocity. It's page 49 of the PDF. Link below.

http://shootata.com/pdfs/ata_rulebook_web.pdf

 

[NachO_1911]

3. Any load with a velocity greater than 1290 FPS (Feet Per Second) with maximum shot charge of 1 1/8 ounces, or 1325 FPS with a maximum shot charge of 1 ounce, or 1350 FPS with a maximum shot charge of 7/8 ounces or less, as measured in any individual shotshell. These velocities are maximum and no individual shotshell shall exceed these limits for the designated shot charge.
In addition, no load containing more than 1 1/8 ounces or any shot larger than Number 7 1/2 can be used. Shot charges are maximum and no charge may exceed the charge amount by more than 3%. Steel shot in Number 7 will be acceptable as long as velocity criteria are the same as for lead shot shells.

That's a copy of the current ATA rule book regarding shells and velocity. It's page 49 of the PDF. Link below.

http://shootata.com/pdfs/ata_rulebook_web.pdf

Thanks BigSkiff - I'm not an ATA shooter, I shoot for fun mostly, Club leagues and Charity shoots.

I've been thinking about joining the ATA and shooting Registered Targets.

Looks like my normal loads are within spec, 1 1/8 oz @ 1200, or 1oz @ 1290 with 7 1/2 shot are my standard choice for trap shooting.

I shoot #8 or #9 1oz @ 1145 for skeet.

NachO

 

[bobski]

thatll work.