What are you looking to have done ? And how far are you willing to drive.

My buddy Bob Barthell is in N. Canton Ohio. I have been at his place when folks from Bridgeport (Ohio side of the river from Wheeling, W. Va) have driven to his place. I trusted him to put a mid bead on a new Citori, to rechamber a $1800.00 Sharps rifle to 45-110, etc.

 

The forearm has split where the one screw holds the latch on.

Basically I need a new piece of lumber made. It looks like they found something on eBay that has also split, glued it, shaved it to fit, and made a quick dollar.

I suppose if I had some decent wood working tools I'd give it a shot. Maybe I'll grab a dremel and start hogging into some seasoned hickory.

 

The forearm has split where the one screw holds the latch on.

I'm guessing that what you REALLY need is a stock maker, not a gunsmith. Check out this thread from another site to see if you can locate one close to you.

Stock/Gun fitters in Michigan | Trapshooters Forum

 

Stevens single shot forearm

For the time and money involved, in the meantime I was going to buy a cheap newer gun while this is addressed. Its been cut down to 18". Its a short, light, and handy little thunder stick.

 

If the wood is not oil soaked, get yourself some thick rubber bands. Put some tape to protect the edges. Get some of the "Gel type" super glue. They have some that is wood rated. Then hold the crack open with a toothpick or two. Squeeze glue in, making sure you get enough down into the crack. Pull out toothpicks and wrap with rubber band(s) very tightly.

I use those big thick ones that come on broccoli at the grocery store.

The top of the wrist on Ithaca buttstocks crack sometimes completely off. I just explained how I have repaired numerous ones. The only part I didn't include was leaching out the oil, as Ithaca 37's often were over oiled and then stored muzzle up. The back of the receiver is open, and the oil ran out, soaking the wood.

If the wood is oil soaked, say so and we can discuss that.

 

it's been soaked, and looks like it's been glued once already. I'm not sure if i should split it and try to dry the oil out.

at this point the lumber is so roached i could care less if i ruin the wood. I'm still using the gun as is, just a pain in the butt to pull the latch down and break the barrel off the receiver, which truthfully, isn't necessary unless it's being cleaned or broken down for transportation, which both are rare. It's a fun gun for the backyard.

 

also what makes it a terrible split, is the fact there's one screw that holds everything together onto the latch, and it's a serious stress spot that is having issues holding itself together with shock.

 

soak it in acetone. that will strip the finish of course, but will help pull out oil and possibly dissolve the old glue. once you get it glue back together, drill a couple small holes and put some brass rod in for reinforcement. you can find small brass rods in the hobby materials at a hardware store, Lowes, etc.

this is an example. acraglas is also usable, but gel superglue is easier to apply in a split

Stock repair using Acraglas and brass cross pins

Wood work is not something I really seek out, but when you get a rifle for a good price that has a seemingly easy to repair stock crack yo...

wonderwolfs.blogspot.com

 

Thats actually a good idea. Maybe brass that's threaded on one end so a fat headed counter sunk screw can pull it together tightly?

Also, know of anyone I can send a barrel off to get threaded for chokes?

 

Once again, Bob Barthell. He does it correctly. He has a fixture that he uses on his mill. Indicates the barrel to be verticle and then indicates to be centered to the centerline of the bore (this is most important for O/U's, SxS's, barrels with wider vent ribs. Then he uses the quill (with a center in it) of the mill to support the tooling. I had him do one of my Ithaca 37 barrels.

A round barrel can be done on a lathe also.

There is also Mike Orlen on the East Coast.

Not a current flyer, but gives you contact info and an idea of price.

 

Here's a more up to date price list

 

Gosh darn. If I fix this forearm, I'm getting two barrels threaded!!!


Any ill pattern effects of taking a 28" barrel and cutting off 10 inches, and threading it for chokes again?

Thanks

 

Mike Orlen could have quicker turn around. Bob is one of the few left in this area that does work for a reasonable price. As such he has lots of work in the pipeline. Not that he sits on it, just work to do.

If you want his contact information, start a conversation with me.

 

Where can I find and what are these types of repair staples called?

They're probably quarter inch wide steel, and they're hammered/pressed sideways into the material.

I've seen them on picture frames.

 

I think these are what you're looking for: The Hillman Group Bright Joint Fasteners 3/8" - Power Jointers - Amazon.com

 

Yes! Thanks.

Description mentions 5ga.....if that follows steel specs, wow......unless that's valley to peak width?

 

It just about has to be if you look at the pictures, but that assumes those are the correct pictures.

 

I'm confused, Your wanting to put hundreds of dollars in a old Stevens with a cut off barrel?

 

Possibly thousands. I'm not sure how much tooling is going to cost.

Rabbit holes can go deep.


This lumber has patina that plastics just can't carry on.

 

There’s a place called Bachelder in GR that’s supposed to be good.