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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
A friend of mine just gave me a winchiester model 1300 defender which has been neglected. He bought it new roughly 10 years ago, fired it 3 or 4 times and then it was stored in a closet since then without ever being cleaned or otherwise maintained.

Below are some pictures. The action seems smooth, and the bolt assembly is rustfree, but it has a fair amount of surface rust on the barrel, mag tube, and the trigger. It doesn't look like there is any pitting. Also the mag follower is siezed, I'm assuming due to rust. What is the best way to clean this up?

I have figured out how to break it down, but I can't see how to remove the magazine tube from the reciever. Does anyone know how to do this? Like I said before, the magazine follower is rusted in place and will not move, preventing any loading, so this needs to be taken apart and cleaned. Any input on how to free the follower, and how to disassemble that part of the gun would be great.









Does anyone know what this mark on the barrel means?

 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
wd-40 or PB Blaster are nice...

get shooting then get the whole gun hard chromed because well, that'd be ****in' badass!

YouTube - Bolt & Magazine Tube Disassembly on 1300 Winchster Defender

god bless youtube.

I had to use it when I forgot how to put my Mossy back together when I had it in pieces for a few weeks waiting to have a safety put back together.

you can probably find a new follower and spring on Brownells - World's Largest Supplier of Firearm Accessories, Gun Parts and Gunsmithing Tools for it too....I doubt it's more than 30 bucks for both shipped.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
just take it apart, hit it with 1000 grit sandpaper, then a dremel with a buffer pad and polishing paste and have a "chrome color" gun for the cheapest result.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
has anyone ever done electrolytic rust removal?

I was thinking about doing that, since you have to connect a lead to the part and a lead to a another steel conductor that sits in the solution not touching the part can you only do one part at a time? or will putting other parts in the solution benefit as well?

I might just have it hard chromed like DevJames suggests. anyone know some good places to have that done? I'm aware of a few places that do the hard chroming but am curious to know about peoples experiences with them. Like Accurate plating and weaponry, Ford's custom gun refinishing, Canyon Creek, etc...
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I have two Win. 1300s. The mag tube is pressed in, don't try to take it out.

Your best bet would be oil and steel wool to get rid of the rust and then have it refinished. I have one that I am currently working on that has the same issues.

As far as the mag follower goes; just pull the spring and plug and then drive out the follower with a piece of baling wire. If you can't get it out, take it to a gun smith to remove the magazine. I can tell you from experiance that you need special tools to get the tube out and back in properly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
has anyone ever done electrolytic rust removal?

I was thinking about doing that, since you have to connect a lead to the part and a lead to a another steel conductor that sits in the solution not touching the part can you only do one part at a time? or will putting other parts in the solution benefit as well?

I might just have it hard chromed like DevJames suggests. anyone know some good places to have that done? I'm aware of a few places that do the hard chroming but am curious to know about peoples experiences with them. Like Accurate plating and weaponry, Ford's custom gun refinishing, Canyon Creek, etc...
I'd go with Duracote or similar before hard chrome. We have a Rem. 870 at work that was chromed for marine patrol and the chrome finish is flaking off.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
The easiest and cheapest way to remove the surface rust is a little bit of 000 steel wool soaked in a little gun oil, remoil works fine. Just lightly rub it and wipe with a clean cloth to check the progress. Don't get overly aggressive and you won't notice any damage to the blueing, since you stated it is not pitted it should look like new. I used this method on many used guns we took as trade-ins at the gunsop. I still keep a piece of oiled steel wool in my gun/tool box. As for the follower, I would try sitting it up against the wall and putting a little oil down the mag tube. I like Kroil, but it's hard to find outside of an industrial facility. Let it sit for a day or two and then try tapping it loose from the breach end with a wooden dowell. Once you get it out, clean it up good with a bore brush and swab it with a little oil. Replace the follower with a synthetic one to prevent a reocurrence. I would replace the mag spring also if there was that much rust in the tube. But try the superfine steel wool and oil first. Trust me, it works. I've used it on everything from a cap and ball Colt to my S&W 14-5.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I'd go with Duracote or similar before hard chrome. We have a Rem. 870 at work that was chromed for marine patrol and the chrome finish is flaking off.
There are so many people on this forum that have hard chromed XD's and rave about it being a great finish and easy to clean and maintain. Are you srure that your work "hard chromed" them? and didnt use some other chrome process? or sent them to someone that did poor workmanship?

Just curious since this is the very first time I've ever heard anything negative about a hard chrome finish.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
There are so many people on this forum that have hard chromed XD's and rave about it being a great finish and easy to clean and maintain. Are you srure that your work "hard chromed" them? and didnt use some other chrome process? or sent them to someone that did poor workmanship?

Just curious since this is the very first time I've ever heard anything negative about a hard chrome finish.
Positive it was "hard chromed," I found a copy of the PO. Perhaps it was not good quality work, maybe the gun just got too much abuse. Whatever it was, it turned me off on the finish. Personally, I'll stick with duracote.
 
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