Shotgun Forums banner
Status
Not open for further replies.
1 - 17 of 17 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I looked online for years for an extended bolt handle for my two old Browning A5's bolts, as well as for my two Remington model 11's bolts, without success. The bolt handle on all the old Browning auto five's (and their clones) is so small that you can only get the tip of one finger on it to operate it. It is amazing to me that in over a century no bolt handle extensions were ever made by a manufacturer for sale to the public. I have found only one instance and even that requires disassembly of the bolt from the gun and removal of the handle from the bolt, where Cotton Branch Custom Firearms will custom make a steel extension and will weld one on for you, but that's all I could find after years of looking into this. Of course I (or you) could disassemble our own gun and make our own steel bolt handle extension and weld it on. But that's not something I believe the average owner would do. Do'able but not without a lathe or mill for forming the bolt handle extension and not without welding equipment nor easily nor fast nor reversible back to factory condition without disassembling the bolt from the gun again and replacing the factory bolt handle that was welded on to. Also no one should weld on a steel bolt handle extension without first taking the bolt out and removing the bolt handle from the bolt. Because welding one on with the bolt and bolt handle still in the gun could very likely un-temper springs in the bolt due to the heat of welding. So welding an extension on without removing the bolt and bolt handle from the gun, is not an option.

That tiny factory bolt handle I don't like on my 1940 & 1948 old auto five's and even older two Remington model 11's has inspired me to make my own bolt handle extension that doesn't require any disassembly of the gun at all. After much thought on the matter, I came up with two basic idea methods to consider that don't require any disassembly of the bolt handle from the gun. I started out with four basic idea methods that included making a two piece clam shell mold to create a clamp on extension but have since discounted that idea as too involved and complicated, so I trimmed my idea methods down to the two simplest ones that the average person could easily understand and do quickly and easily and that are also both reversible back to factory condition without buying new parts.

(1.) This is my idea/method for extending the bolt handle on my 1940 Belgium Browning A5 I have done. I placed a nickel plated .45 acp empty shell casing over my old A5's bolt handle and it fit snugly. I actually could very lightly tap it over the bolt handle and it stuck without deforming the case. So the next thing I did was to put some pieces of Handiwrap cellophane pressed tightly into the bottom of the case because I didn't need to fill the entire case with J&B Weld Epoxy and didn't need the weight nor volume of the J&B Weld epoxy for the entire case volume, I just wanted the area around the factory bolt handle to be encased by the J&B Weld Epoxy that would also hold the .45 acp case to the factory bolt handle. I measured the bolt handle for how far it would fit into the empty cartridge case and kept adding handiwrap pieces tightly pressed into the bottom of the case until I got the exact depth I needed within the case for the J&B Weld Epoxy to encapsulate my factory bolt handle without using unnecessary epoxy. You have to make sure you do this with the bolt retracted to the rear, because you need to eyeball the clearance you need between the cartridge case and the receiver to prevent the case from scratching up your receiver when the bolt handle reciprocates in that slot in the receiver.

Next I put J&B Weld epoxy into the empty case but not all the way to the top because I had to allow for the bolt handle displacing some of the epoxy as I lowered the bolt handle into the case and didn't want that displacement to overflow the epoxy from my cartridge case. I did this by putting the shotgun on a flat surface and placing magazines under the fore end and receiver until my bolt handle would enter the proper depth into the upright cartridge case. This is necessary because the flat area on the bolt handle has to be clear to reciprocate into the slot on the receiver. and also so the case mouth won't scratch up your receiver as it reciprocates. Then I let the epoxy dry overnight and for a few days thereafter. Working the bolt handle back and forth it seemed to work just fine, even with letting the bolt "fly" forward and not riding it forward. It is a LOT easier to use now. This is an easy and cheap solution. And there's no down side because it is reversible because J&B Weld Epoxy can be liquefied again by a propane torch and wiped off with a rag without heat damaging any springs in the gun. Just heat up the cartridge case with your torch, grab the case with some pliers and pull it off the factory bolt handle once the epoxy liquefies and then wipe the liquefied epoxy off your factory bolt handle (wear thick gloves to protect from the heat). A little messy, but totally reversible to factory condition.








If someone wants their old A5 (or a clone of the A5) to have a longer bolt handle extension (I don't), then just J&B Weld Epoxy on a Colt .45 case like I thought about doing in this below photo of mine where I put the Colt .45 case over the factory bolt handle to see how it would look. Of course I'd use a nickel plated one (looks better) if I did that, but all I had was a brass empty one at the time. It was a big "NO!" to me and I went with the shorter .45 acp case instead. No need for a bolt handle that long in my opinion. But if someone has a physical or handicap issue, it may be an option.




(2.) If the J&B Weld Epoxy doesn't hold up over long term firing and comes loose, I have another solution. Replace the epoxy with silver solder also known as "hard solder". Not solder like used to solder electronics, but solder like is used for soldering on front sights and antique Lyman Cutts compensators on shotgun barrels or soldering on barrel ribs or two barrels together on double barrel shotguns. That kind of solder. The ATF has even stated that silver soldering or hard soldering they consider to be permanent welding even though yes, it is reversible using a torch. The ATF recognizes that barrel extensions and flash suppressors silver soldered or hard soldered to a barrel, would count as being part of the barrel itself. So if a person had a barrel under legal length but could be made legal by the addition of a silver soldered or hard soldered barrel extension or flash suppressor or compensator, then it would then become a legal length barrel again. Just a little FYI there for you folks that may not have known that.

So proceed just like I did in #1. above except omit the Handiwrap cartridge space filler because the hard solder would melt it and instead use another filler like sand. If you de-cap the primer out of the (Boxer primed bigger center hole than two smaller Berdan primer holes) .45 acp case before you use it, then later you can pour the sand out to decrease extended bolt handle weight and if you want, even drill out the Boxer primer hole more to further decrease weight. Now fill your .45 acp case with sand up to just below where your bolt handle will fit into it, and set the case onto a thin piece of steel. The sand won't come out the primer hole until you lift the case back up. You might even want to very lightly clamp the case with a vice grip so the force of the torch flame hitting it won't knock it over.

Now set your thin books or magazines under the right side of the receiver and fore end of the Browning A5 or Remington model 11, so that the bolt handle will project downward the correct distance into the .45 acp cartridge case. Once you've checked your measurements like that to make sure the flat area behind the factory bolt is free to reciprocate in the slot of the receiver, then heat the cartridge case with your torch and fill it with the melted silver solder/hard solder making sure to not fill it up all the way so it doesn't spill out when you lower your bolt handle into it so that the melted silver solder/hard solder encapsulates the factory bolt handle just like if you had used J&B Weld epoxy. Now let it set up and cool. I recommend letting it cool naturally without pouring water on it. Then later after it is cooled, lift the gun up and pour the sand filler out of the boxer primer hole in the cartridge case, even drilling out the de-capped primer hole to make it larger and decrease even more weight if you prefer, (but not really necessary).

Once the sand is out, you could even wrap some asbestos around the mouth of the case where it is close to the receiver and then heat up the case again and put your silver solder/hard solder through the primer hole to hard solder even more inside the cartridge case if you feel it is necessary or think you may not have encapsulated the factory bolt handle completely with your silver solder/hard solder as much as you would have liked. The asbestos wrapped around the mouth of the case would prevent any silver solder/hard solder from your first soldering from exiting the mouth of the case onto your receiver and spilling into your bolt, since the asbestos would hold it in while it cooled along with the new solder you just did through the enlarged primer hole. But if you measured correctly you shouldn't need a second soldering. If my J&B Weld Epoxy method in #1 above doesn't hold up, this is the method I'll use and it should be stronger than the J&B Weld Epoxy method. Hopefully I won't need to. See my pictures, they are pretty easy to understand.

(update after test firing).

Yesterday (11-2-22) I went out to my shooting berm on my back acre and fired six #8 light load, 2&3/4's shot shells, and the .45 acp case stayed nice and tightly attached to my old factory bolt handle. Then I switched to heavier loads. But being my old 1940 Belgium Browning auto five has a Lyman Cutts comp on it, I didn't need to change the friction ring settings. That the beauty of the old (corncob) Cutts comp on an A5, you set it once for no friction and never have to change it no matter what load you fire. The extra weight of the Cutts comp plus its gas dissipating slots makes for less recoil than an old A5 without a Cutts comp. See this diagram for friction ring settings with and without a Cutts comp. As you can see, with a Cutts compensator, it stays at the no friction setting for all loads and you don't have to change the friction ring settings. As long as your barrel recoil spring is still good that is. If your barrel recoil spring becomes weak you might change the friction ring setting to light loads, until you can get a new recoil spring. I find that my Cutts comps on my various antique shotguns (A5's, Remy 11's, Win 12, etc) aid in my swing on clays and I use the spreader choke most of the time on clays. They are antiques for sure, but operate just as good (if not better) and with my antique semi autos with softer recoil with the Cutts comp on it than the modern inertia operated shotguns. All my semi auto (except for one modern Fostech gas operated Origin 12) and slide action shotguns are antiques. I find their milled all steel and wood quality to be better than most modern shotguns with few exceptions in my opinion. Some find the Lyman Cutts compensator to be ugly. I see it as just the opposite and as a beautiful antique piece on an antique shotgun that does its recoil compensating and choke job excellently.



Okay, enough about the Cutts comp. Next I fired nine heavy load 00 buck 2 & 3/4's shot shells. (I don't own a magnum shotgun) and since I was TRYING to make the epoxied .45 acp case loosen from the factory bolt handle, I fired them rapidly from the hip as fast as I could function the trigger. First five. "BOOM, BOOM, BOOM, BOOM, BOOM" almost like a burst of auto fire from a Bofors or Oerlikon anti-aircraft cannon
, (who's recoiling barrels inspired me to invent and patent "Bump fire stocks" A.K.A, "Bumpstocks") and then four more of the same rapid "booms" all with 00 buck heavy loads. All 9 rounds fired flawlessly and the nickel plated .45acp case stayed tightly epoxied to my old factory bolt handle. 15 shells fired in all counting 6 light and 9 heavy loads. So the test firing proved my #1 method works to very cheaply and with no special tools nor any disassembly of the bolt, to extend the tiny factory bolt handle just using an empty .45 acp case and J&B Weld Epoxy if you will follow my method #1. How will it hold up to hundreds of rounds fired in the future? That remains to be seen. But if it ever does come loose, then I'll just use my #2 method of replacing the J&B Weld epoxy with silver solder/hard solder as I have already described to make sure that doesn't happen again. But for now at least, my #1 method of J&B Weld Epoxying a .45 acp case to the factory bolt handle for extending it has held up to light and heavy loads so far.

Below pics with spent shells after test firing.








Well there you have it. I've shown cheap and easy ways for you to extend your old A5, Savage 720, Remy 11 or any of the old Browning Auto Five clones to have an extended bolt handle with no disassembly of your gun, nor bolt, without sending it off to a custom shop and just using an empty .45 acp cartridge case and some J&B Weld Epoxy or possibly silver solder/hard solder. All you have to do is follow my instructions in this thread. It was easy to do and I really like my new homemade .45 acp case bolt handle extension. You won't believe the difference it makes in ease of cocking the bolt now. So if you're like me and don't like that tiny tip of your finger bolt charging handle on your old Browning Auto Five or its clones, here's an answer for you that anyone can do without disassembly of your gun and without any special tools and is reversible later back to original factory condition if you want.

You're welcome :).

P.S. If you use my instructions, drop me a post here with some pics showing your bolt handle extension. I'd love to see how others did using my method.
 
  • Like
Reactions: oneounceload

·
Registered
Joined
·
25 Posts
Like the Happy Kaboomer, I have had one or another of these guns since I was a teenager. I am now age 80. I never felt I needed more to operate the gun. Had an M1 Garand in the Marines, the operating handle is about the same size and none of us seemed to have problems with it. I have no idea if adding weight out there can create problems, but if it does, it won't surprise me.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited by Moderator)
I've shot A5's for 40 years. The factory bolt handle is plenty big enough for me........However to each is own......Go forth and be happy.
. And I've shot the old A5's and Remy 11's for the past 50 years and am 69 now. I don't care if the tiny old Browning Auto five handle is big enough for you. I can operate it also, and have done so for 10 years longer than you have, but shouldn't be forced to do so with such a small bolt handle so I fixed it so I don't have to.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited by Moderator)
Like the Happy Kaboomer, I have had one or another of these guns since I was a teenager. I am now age 80. I never felt I needed more to operate the gun. Had an M1 Garand in the Marines, the operating handle is about the same size and none of us seemed to have problems with it. I have no idea if adding weight out there can create problems, but if it does, it won't surprise me.

I'm 69 and I used both the M1 Garand AND the M14 rifles in the Marines also, the bolt handles of both the Garand and the M14 are pretty much identical and are substantially larger and longer than the old Browning auto five's tiny little tip of the finger bolt handle. My old Browning Auto 5's handle is about 1/2 inch long. The width of my index finger tip is wider than that. My M1A's op rod handle is almost 7/8ths of an inch long. 3/8ths of an inch longer than the Auto 5's bolt handle.

See my below pics of my M1A (semi auto only M14) bolt handle next to my old Browning auto five's tiny tip of the finger bolt handle and how much larger and longer the M1A's is than the Auto five's bolt handle? And as a Marine, you should have never forgotten the feel of the op handle on the Garand and M14 rifles which are identical. .
Font Tints and shades Rectangle Wood Carmine

Fluid Gas Automotive lighting Tints and shades Font

Musical instrument Leg Automotive tire Human body Chair
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
232 Posts
I'm not impressed by your un-asked for opinion. And I've shot the old A5's and Remy 11's for the past 50 years and am 69 now. I don't care if the tiny old Browning Auto five handle is big enough for you. I can operate it also, and have done so for 10 years longer than you have, but shouldn't be forced to do so with such a small bolt handle so I fixed it so I don't have to. I would "go forth and be happy" if people like you didn't bother me with your unsolicited opinion and disparaging remarks of "The factory bolt handle is plenty big enough for me". Well good for you mister troll! It obviously isn't for me or I wouldn't have extended mine now would I? You knew that obvious fact, and knowingly still just had to troll post something disparaging about my extended bolt handle didn't you? Since I DID extend mine, do you think you telling me the factory bolt handle is good for you in any way interests me? You know better than that. You just had to say something negative didn't you? I don't care what you think nor what your opinion is. If you felt the same way about my extending my bolt handle, then you should have just scrolled on past my thread without posting your needless remarks. You did the same thing at my identical post at The Firing Line Forums shotgun forum and were even more disparaging there you disgusting troll.
Sad you get your shorts in knots when some when someone disagrees with your non essential glue on part. See ya posted this on several other forum with little to no response.........As to being called a troll.........I've been here 10 years longer than you............Plus. Iffen ya didn't want comments why'd ya post it at all.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited by Moderator)
Sad you get your shorts in knots when some when someone disagrees with your non essential glue on part. See ya posted this on several other forum with little to no response.........As to being called a troll.........I've been here 10 years longer than you............Plus. Iffen ya didn't want comments why'd ya post it at all.

And it's not a "glue" . It's either J&B weld epoxy or silver solder/hard solder as I described in my OP. Neither of which are a "glue". And so what if they were? Yes I posted this at several other forums, so what? .

To answer your question of why did I post at all "Iffen ya didn't want comments", here's why,.... . I posted this for people who are interested as well as for people who do an online search for a way to extend their old Auto five's bolt handles to find my posts. I put a lot of thought and effort into making this and creating my post for others to see how to extend their bolt handles, and it should be obvious to you that since I created a bolt handle extension and a post about how others can do it, that I wouldn't be interested in hearing you tell me how the auto five's bolt handle is fine for you. I just spent the time to create an extended one as well as create this thread since that tiny bolt handle wasn't fine for me?





.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
232 Posts
It's not a "glue" you twit. It's either J&B weld epoxy or silver solder/hard solder as I described in my OP. Neither of which are a "glue". And so what if they were? Yes I posted this at several other forums, so what? And you came into one of them at The Firing Line Forums shotgun forum, with your trolling disparaging, negative, unsolicited remarks and did so multiple times at that firing line shotgun forum thread. You just have to be negative and mess with someone for no reason don't you? I call that being a troll both here and at The Firing Line shotgun forum. To answer your question of why did I post at all. I didn't post this for trolls like you to make a bunch of unnecessary, negative, disparaging, remarks. I posted this for people who are interested as well as for people who do an online search for a way to extend their old Auto five's bolt handles to find my posts. I put a lot of thought and effort into making this and creating my post for others to see how to extend their bolt handles, and it should be obvious to you that since I created a bolt handle extension and a post about how others can do it, that I wouldn't be interested in hearing you tell me how the auto five's bolt handle is fine for you. Do you think I care if it's fine for you after I just spent the time to create an extended one as well as create this thread since that tiny bolt handle wasn't fine for me? You're a special kind of stupid as well as a troll who revels in being negative and disparaging on someone's post aren't you? And you've now done it at this site as well as multiple times at my identical thread at the firing line forums shotgun forum at this below link, so that everyone here can see that you're a stalking troll not only here, but at this other forum where you posted your unnecessary disparaging remarks multiple times in your multiple posts in my identical thread there.

You just can't scroll past something you don't like can you? You just have to unnecessarily pi_s in someone's Cherrios and do so multiple times at various different shotgun forums. That's how you get your jollies. Because that's the disgusting kind of stalking, trolling person you are. Keep out of my threads and leave me alone you negative spirit. It's precisely because of as__oles like you that I rarely post at firearm forums anymore.



.
Sad you have to resort to name calling. Which means nothing. As I said earlier. Go forth and be happy. Instead of being a mad little boy every time someone disagrees with with you.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
653 Posts
It's not a "glue" you twit. It's either J&B weld epoxy or silver solder/hard solder as I described in my OP. Neither of which are a "glue". And so what if they were? Yes I posted this at several other forums, so what? And you came into one of them at The Firing Line Forums shotgun forum, with your trolling disparaging, negative, unsolicited remarks and did so multiple times at that firing line shotgun forum thread. You just have to be negative and mess with someone for no reason don't you? I call that being a troll both here and at The Firing Line shotgun forum. To answer your question of why did I post at all. I didn't post this for trolls like you to make a bunch of unnecessary, negative, disparaging, remarks. I posted this for people who are interested as well as for people who do an online search for a way to extend their old Auto five's bolt handles to find my posts. I put a lot of thought and effort into making this and creating my post for others to see how to extend their bolt handles, and it should be obvious to you that since I created a bolt handle extension and a post about how others can do it, that I wouldn't be interested in hearing you tell me how the auto five's bolt handle is fine for you. Do you think I care if it's fine for you after I just spent the time to create an extended one as well as create this thread since that tiny bolt handle wasn't fine for me? You're a special kind of stupid as well as a troll who revels in being negative and disparaging on someone's post aren't you? And you've now done it at this site as well as multiple times at my identical thread at the firing line forums shotgun forum at this below link, so that everyone here can see that you're a stalking troll not only here, but at this other forum where you posted your unnecessary disparaging remarks multiple times in your multiple posts in my identical thread there.

You just can't scroll past something you don't like can you? You just have to unnecessarily pi_s in someone's Cherrios and do so multiple times at various different shotgun forums. That's how you get your jollies. Because that's the disgusting kind of stalking, trolling person you are. Keep out of my threads and leave me alone you negative spirit. It's precisely because of as__oles like you that I rarely post at firearm forums anymore.
.
WOW. You must not frequent forums much. THK said pretty much what I would have. If you're happy with your modification...live long and prosper, but don't over-react and resort to name calling when someone comes along and says no thanks.

Good luck and all the best.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
It's not a "glue" you twit. It's either J&B weld epoxy or silver solder/hard solder as I described in my OP. Neither of which are a "glue". And so what if they were? Yes I posted this at several other forums, so what? And you came into one of them at The Firing Line Forums shotgun forum, with your trolling disparaging, negative, unsolicited remarks and did so multiple times at that firing line shotgun forum thread. You just have to be negative and mess with someone for no reason don't you? I call that being a troll both here and at The Firing Line shotgun forum. To answer your question of why did I post at all. I didn't post this for trolls like you to make a bunch of unnecessary, negative, disparaging, remarks. I posted this for people who are interested as well as for people who do an online search for a way to extend their old Auto five's bolt handles to find my posts. I put a lot of thought and effort into making this and creating my post for others to see how to extend their bolt handles, and it should be obvious to you that since I created a bolt handle extension and a post about how others can do it, that I wouldn't be interested in hearing you tell me how the auto five's bolt handle is fine for you. Do you think I care if it's fine for you after I just spent the time to create an extended one as well as create this thread since that tiny bolt handle wasn't fine for me? You're a special kind of stupid as well as a troll who revels in being negative and disparaging on someone's post aren't you? And you've now done it at this site as well as multiple times at my identical thread at the firing line forums shotgun forum at this below link, so that everyone here can see that you're a stalking troll not only here, but at this other forum where you posted your unnecessary disparaging remarks multiple times in your multiple posts in my identical thread there.

You just can't scroll past something you don't like can you? You just have to unnecessarily pi_s in someone's Cherrios and do so multiple times at various different shotgun forums. That's how you get your jollies. Because that's the disgusting kind of stalking, trolling person you are. Keep out of my threads and leave me alone you negative spirit. It's precisely because of as__oles like you that I rarely post at firearm forums anymore.



.
Why would anyone want to ruin a perfectly great shotgun by scabbing on a pistol cartridge casing? Gun has absolutely no value any longer.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
Why would anyone want to ruin a perfectly great shotgun by scabbing on a pistol cartridge casing? Gun has absolutely no value any longer.
It's not ruined. If you had even bothered to read my OP, you would have seen both methods I described using J&B weld epoxy or silver solder/hard solder (including the epoxy one that I did) are completely reversible without buying any replacement factory bolt handle. Since both easily reversible, pray tell us all, how exactly is that "ruined"?

This wasn't just you disagreeing with what I created because you think I "ruined" my gun and made it have no value. No, because as my OP described both my methods are easily reversible to factory configuration. .. Are any of the front sights of your firearms "scabbed on" with epoxy or silver solder? Do you own a double barrel shotgun? Because all double barreled shotguns have silver soldered "scabbed on" barrels soldered together, or a "scabbed on" rib between them if they are a side by side. How about a "scabbed on" raised or vent rib on any other shotgun you might own? According to your logic, that means any guns you have like that are (in your own words)...... "ruined" and have......"absolutely no value any longer".

Further, if you knew anything about the collectibility about Belgium (or Japanese) old Browning auto 5's, then you would know that the value of this NON "perfectly great shotgun" (almost but not "perfect" due to its dinky little bolt knob of a handle) was considerably lessened by whoever put the Cutts compensator on it and replaced the original wood with the fiberglass Bell and Carlston stock, long before I acquired it for. Besides, this is my gun for me to do with as I please, and I like the extended bolt handle I created a lot.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
post deleted
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
It's not ruined. If you had even bothered to read my OP, you would have seen both methods I described using J&B weld epoxy or silver solder/hard solder (including the epoxy one that I did) are completely reversible without buying any replacement factory bolt handle. Since both easily reversible, pray tell us all, how exactly is that "ruined"?

This wasn't just you disagreeing with what I created because you think I "ruined" my gun and made it have no value. No, because as my OP described both my methods are easily reversible to factory configuration. So it's not you disagreeing with my creation because since it is reversible there's nothing for you to disagree with. This is you just being an illogicall jerk and trying to back up "The Happy Kaboomer", by being so disparaging with your unsolicited opinion and "piling on" me, to deflect that I had completely discredited and exposed The Happy Kaboomer for the stalking troll he is both here and at my identical thread at the Firing Line Shotgun Forum, with your failed logic and your failed attempt to demonize and disparage me and crap on my thread by call epoxying or silver solderiing "scabbing on". Are any of the front sights of your firearms "scabbed on" with epoxy or silver solder? Do you own a double barrel shotgun? Because all double barreled shotguns have silver soldered "scabbed on" barrels soldered together, or a "scabbed on" rib between them if they are a side by side. How about a "scabbed on" raised or vent rib on any other shotgun you might own? According to your logic, that means any guns you have like that are (in your own words)...... "ruined" and have......"absolutely no value any longer".

Further, if you knew anything about the collectibility about Belgium (or Japanese) old Browning auto 5's, then you would know that the value of this NON "perfectly great shotgun" (almost but not "perfect" due to its dinky little bolt knob of a handle) was considerably lessened by whoever put the Cutts compensator on it and replaced the original wood with the fiberglass Bell and Carlston stock, long before I acquired it for. Besides, this is my gun for me to do with as I please, and I like the extended bolt handle I created a lot. If you don't like it, then just have the common decency to scroll on and keep your disparaging remarks to yourself. But just like your fellow harassing troll The Happy Kaboomer, you can't do that can you? You get off on crapping on someones thread and piling on them. It temporarily pads your otherwise insufficient ego, until you need your next ego padding fix at the expense of the next person you do this to.

I noticed the grinning little face jwsmith 1959 emoji of yours at the bottom of your post. How appropriate because I view you just like that. A disgusting and grinning little weasel of a troll harassing people. Okay now grinning little weasel troll, you've let me and everyone else know you don't like the extended bolt handle I created, with you unsolicited and illogical opinion, even though you knew full well from reading the exchange between the disparaging troll The Happy Kaboomer and I, that I would not care what your opinion was. But you just had to "pile on" and also crap on my thread, even though your logic was wrong and I proved it because my creation is easily reversible so the gun isn't "ruined". Well fine. You've done your unsolicited, disparaging, trolling job of crapping on my thread and along with The Happy Kaboomer, both of you are attempting to socially shame and socially cancel me with your crapping on my thread, disparaging and disrespectful remarks. And I know why. Because both of you are a couple of "Elmer Fudds" who think any modification, even a reversible one, to a Browning shotgun is somehow "sacrileges". Plus guys like him and you get off on messing with the new guy at a forum and letting him know how knowledgable you both are and what I can post or can't post and "who's boss around here fricking new guy", and this was my very first post. But will you do the same to any poster who shares their NEW Browning A5 that looks like an old auto 5, but is internally different from the old auto 5, and DOES have aftermarket extended bolt handles available? That would be someone modifying a Browning semi auto and "sacrileges" to you also wouldn't it? Or are you even aware those "sacrileges" extended bolt handles are available for the NEW Browning A5?

Okay little grinning weasel, illogical troll, you've had your fun, now like I said earlier, tell us all how since my OP described how both my methods for extending the old auto 5's bolt handle are easily reversible, how does that makes the gun "ruined" and make it have "absolutely no value any longer". Come on now grinning little weasel troll, we all want to hear you defend your illogical statements. You made those statements, so back them up. We all can't wait to hear more illogical B.S. from you. (My turn to grin 😁).
WOWSER! You have really hurt my feelings. I’ll just crawl into a cocoon and hope for a better day in the future.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
WOWSER! You have really hurt my feelings. I’ll just crawl into a cocoon and hope for a better day in the future.
We all can see you didn't explain like I asked you to, why you said my shotgun was "ruined" and why you said "Gun has absolutely no value any longer" when the two methods I described for extending the bolt handle and the one method I've used thus far are both EASILY REVERSIBLE. as I in detail described in my OP .
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
653 Posts
Well Bill, I've been around on "Message Boards" from way back in the IRC days well before there were "forums" that we have today. I was a college Baseball (and FP Softball) Umpire back then and it's how we communicated. We beat each other so much that it would get you banned on most forums these days.

Get over yourself!
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
6,934 Posts
My apologies for letting this go this far; had company.

Did my best to clean up this mess while still leaving something relevant. If folks cannot communicate without insults, do it someplace else. I KNOW this would have resulted in a ban on TFL
 
1 - 17 of 17 Posts
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top