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LC Smith Build--Triggers Inc. Continued
Hey All
I set some criteria for my search through the trigger box, weeding out all of the separate triggers and assemblies that did not match the LC Smith triggers. The first criteria I set was to match the distance from the uppermost point of the front trigger surface where it contacts the trigger plate to the center of the hinge pin hole. As closely as I can measure, this distance is held to .600 on the LC trigger plate that I have. This eliminated all of my separate triggers, and all but five of my assemblies, see Picture #1. One assembly stood out, Picture #2, because of a broken trigger plate. These triggers are not a bad fit at all, the only argument I have with them is that they are hung too closely together. A little careful bending and reshaping of the triggers will fix that issue. The blades are plenty big enough to clean up all around, and the front to back distance from the hinge pin hole to the front of the trigger surface is very close. The hinge pin hole through these triggers is slightly larger than the hinge pin hole through the LC Smith plate, but it is a simple matter to TIG up the holes in the triggers, and then drill them on size, minutely adjusting the hole location as required. I filed the upset amount off of the trigger pin, see Picture #3, and drifted the pin out of the broken plate. Here in Pictures # 4, and #5 we see the separated triggers with the LC plate.
I think we have a good starting point now. We will need to have the hinge pin holes TIG welded up, bend and reshape the triggers to get more room between them, drill the hinge pin holes in the precise location, drill an additional hole in each trigger for the trigger anti-slack spring. Then we will precisely fit them to the trigger plate, and later to the safety bar. It looks like we will be scratch building the pivoting safety bar, this part is proving to be very hard to find, but shouldn't be hard to figure out, and to build once we have the safety slide in hand.
Hey All
I set some criteria for my search through the trigger box, weeding out all of the separate triggers and assemblies that did not match the LC Smith triggers. The first criteria I set was to match the distance from the uppermost point of the front trigger surface where it contacts the trigger plate to the center of the hinge pin hole. As closely as I can measure, this distance is held to .600 on the LC trigger plate that I have. This eliminated all of my separate triggers, and all but five of my assemblies, see Picture #1. One assembly stood out, Picture #2, because of a broken trigger plate. These triggers are not a bad fit at all, the only argument I have with them is that they are hung too closely together. A little careful bending and reshaping of the triggers will fix that issue. The blades are plenty big enough to clean up all around, and the front to back distance from the hinge pin hole to the front of the trigger surface is very close. The hinge pin hole through these triggers is slightly larger than the hinge pin hole through the LC Smith plate, but it is a simple matter to TIG up the holes in the triggers, and then drill them on size, minutely adjusting the hole location as required. I filed the upset amount off of the trigger pin, see Picture #3, and drifted the pin out of the broken plate. Here in Pictures # 4, and #5 we see the separated triggers with the LC plate.
I think we have a good starting point now. We will need to have the hinge pin holes TIG welded up, bend and reshape the triggers to get more room between them, drill the hinge pin holes in the precise location, drill an additional hole in each trigger for the trigger anti-slack spring. Then we will precisely fit them to the trigger plate, and later to the safety bar. It looks like we will be scratch building the pivoting safety bar, this part is proving to be very hard to find, but shouldn't be hard to figure out, and to build once we have the safety slide in hand.
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