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Which Choke, if Any?

This is a discussion on Which Choke, if Any? within the Trap Shooting forums, part of the Shotgun Shooters Forum category; Originally Posted by Flash Two steps back for one increment of choke change? Something wrong there. Today I got out a hundred of these 3/4 ...



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Old 02-02-2020, 07:47 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by Flash View Post
Two steps back for one increment of choke change?

Something wrong there.
Today I got out a hundred of these 3/4 oz loads and my Citory and was breaking most of them with the skeet choke and IM all the way out to the end of the cord that came with the trap. I think that is about 17-18 yards. Putting the full choke in didn't seem to make much difference, still missed a couple or three out of 25 with moving left and right of the trap at that distance.

I did have some trouble with the reloads in the Fiochi hulls resetting the trigger for the second shot. Any of the other hulls seemed to function fine. Every thing else about the load, wad, powder, lead was all the same. Just different hull and Fiochi primer in the fiochi hulls.
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Old 02-03-2020, 08:23 AM   #12
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This is more or less correct.

https://1source.basspro.com/news-tip...un-choke-tubes

Super-Full/Extra-Full: Two choke types sometimes called "gobbler getters," these are ideally suited for the head shots necessary when turkey hunting. They have extra-tight constrictions and the densest patterns.

Full: This choke has tight constriction and a dense pattern, delivering approximately 70 percent of a shell's total pellets in a 30-inch circle at 40 yards. It's often used for trap shooting, waterfowl pass shooting, turkey hunting and buckshot loads.

Modified: This choke has less constriction than a full choke, delivering approximately 60 percent of a shell's total pellets in a 30-inch circle at 40 yards. It's great for general waterfowl hunting and hunting distant-flushing upland birds and small-game animals such as late-season pheasants and rabbits. Also used for trap shooting.

Improved Cylinder: Even less constricted than modified, the improved cylinder distributes approximately 50 percent of a shell's total pellets in a 30-inch circle at 40 yards. This often is the choice of hunters shooting waterfowl close over decoys or pursuing close-quarters upland birds such as quail, grouse and pheasants. Rifled slugs usually perform well with this choke.

Cylinder: With no constriction, this choke distributes approximately 40 percent of a shell's total pellets in a 30-inch circle at 40 yards. It's most often used by law enforcement for service shotguns.

Skeet: This choke distributes approximately 50 percent of a shell's total pellets in a 30-inch circle at 25 yards. It's designed to deliver optimum patterns for close-range skeet shooting .
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Old 02-03-2020, 10:26 AM   #13
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EXCEPT - to Flash's great definitions, what a choke will do versus how it is marked is not always the same. I have had chokes marked skeet that patterned more like Mod with certain ammo in a certain gun. Choke designations are an approximation that will hopefully get you started in the right direction, but until you hit the pattern plate, you will never know for certain.

The velocity of the ammo can also have an effect; running uber-fast loads through very tight chokes (as many turkey hunters are wont to do) can actually lead to very open blown patterns where that desired tight core is gone. Again the pattern plate is your friend.
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Old 02-03-2020, 10:51 AM   #14
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Originally Posted by oneounceload View Post
EXCEPT - to Flash's great definitions, what a choke will do versus how it is marked is not always the same. I have had chokes marked skeet that patterned more like Mod with certain ammo in a certain gun. Choke designations are an approximation that will hopefully get you started in the right direction, but until you hit the pattern plate, you will never know for certain.

The velocity of the ammo can also have an effect; running uber-fast loads through very tight chokes (as many turkey hunters are wont to do) can actually lead to very open blown patterns where that desired tight core is gone. Again the pattern plate is your friend.
This is a real point here. I have NOT patterned this gun. I know all about "assuming" and yet I still just assumed this gun was hitting I aimed it. If feels so nice and looks so pretty... Any way first on the agenda today is setting up the chronograph in front of some card board.

Last night I reloaded that exact set of hulls I shot yesterday and and just gave these that next smallest possible extra shot of Red Dot. Kinda hoping it will be enough to reset that trigger every time on every hull as much as anything but it might even give those little 8's a little more crack on the targets. May be.

Heck maybe I just can't hit 'em out that far any more. Before I quit I'll get out a box of factory 1 1/8 AAs and live like the rich guys for a round.
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Old 02-03-2020, 11:55 AM   #15
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Once I get over this damn flu, I need to hit the pattern board with my DT-11. A friend and i found out that previously, it was shooting 100% low at 16 yards. While it has an adjustable comb, it might also need an adjustable buttpad. If I hadn't done that, I would still be wondering why I was missing so many targets.
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Old 02-03-2020, 04:07 PM   #16
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Yeah, when it hit 72 degrees here I had a change of plans and got on the motorcycle...
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Old 02-03-2020, 07:42 PM   #17
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74 here in Knoxville, was shooting skeet today in shorts and a tee shirt. Tomorrow is supposed to be nice and warm - but very, very, wet.
Back on subject - all of those choke designations are nominal. Without knowing the gun's actual bore, they don't help a lot - unless you pattern a lot.
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Old 02-11-2020, 07:34 AM   #18
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Every post I read gives me more and more questions!

My first Skeet outing was yesterday. I had a mod and an improved cylinder choke in my U/O. Those two were the suggestion(s) from the "puller" when I was shooting my first Trap a few days before.

After reading this thread, it sounds like I should have put in the Cylinder ( I don't have a Skeet choke) and the Improved Cylinder for Skeet. I also assume (I know about ASSUME) that the Cylinder choke goes in the bottom (first to fire) barrel. Is this correct?

Since I was shooting singles, should I have only loaded One shell at a time, and always in the lower barrel, to get the full effect of the Cylinder choke on every shot??

Sorry for all of the dumb questions, but I have a lot to learn.

thanks very much.

Just learning here.
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Old 02-11-2020, 03:24 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by oneounceload View Post
EXCEPT - to Flash's great definitions, what a choke will do versus how it is marked is not always the same. I have had chokes marked skeet that patterned more like Mod with certain ammo in a certain gun. Choke designations are an approximation that will hopefully get you started in the right direction, but until you hit the pattern plate, you will never know for certain.
I read that and immediately thought about a past California State Trapshooting Champion and Trap and SC Instructor named George Rappas.

He showed up at a field I was at one day with a new shotgun, went out and shot one round of doubles and one round of handicap.

When he walked back to where I was a bunch of guys there asked him what the shotgun patterned for each barrel. He said he didn't know as he never patterned guns on the patterning board.

So one of them asked if he was going to pattern the new gun. He said he just did with two rounds of trap and walked off.

Originally Posted by richg99 View Post
Every post I read gives me more and more questions!

My first Skeet outing was yesterday. I had a mod and an improved cylinder choke in my U/O. Those two were the suggestion(s) from the "puller" when I was shooting my first Trap a few days before.

After reading this thread, it sounds like I should have put in the Cylinder ( I don't have a Skeet choke) and the Improved Cylinder for Skeet. I also assume (I know about ASSUME) that the Cylinder choke goes in the bottom (first to fire) barrel. Is this correct?

Since I was shooting singles, should I have only loaded One shell at a time, and always in the lower barrel, to get the full effect of the Cylinder choke on every shot??

Sorry for all of the dumb questions, but I have a lot to learn.

thanks very much.

Just learning here.
Sounds like you got the wrong puller. If it were me and I had the chokes you had, I would've used cylinder and Improved Cylinder.

Most people put the more open choke in the lower barrel, including me. I've never met anyone who did it the other way but I'm sure there are some.

And yes, if you're shooting singles, just load one shell and put it in the barrel that has the most open choke.
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Last edited by Flash; 02-11-2020 at 03:31 PM.
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Old 02-11-2020, 06:24 PM   #20
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Originally Posted by richg99 View Post
Every post I read gives me more and more questions!



Sorry for all of the dumb questions, but I have a lot to learn.

thanks very much.

Just learning here.
The only dumb question is the one you don't ask.
All of us started out as newbies who didn't know doodly-squat and asked the same questions, and that is how we learned.
Don't worry about asking questions. As you have already seen here and at your club, most folks are happy to help.
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